CENTRAL FRANCE - VICHY, famous spa town in the Allier, France

CENTRAL FRANCE - VICHY, ALLIER (03), AUVERGNE

Vichy, in the Allier department in the Auvergne region of Central France is a town of charm and gentle affluence from times past. Famous for its spa waters and infamous in its role in the war as governmental headquarters or a traitorous government.

QUICK FACTS: VICHY, ALLIER (03):

Vichy, a thermal spa resort, with approx 75,000 inhabitiants
Vichy's strengths are excellent watersports, sports, health & beauty and modern language facilities
Vichy was the Administration centre for the French Government during the German Occupation of France in WWII

ANCIENT VICHY

In 52 Ad, Julius Caesar crossed a wooden bridge said to be behind le Palais des Parcs that exists today, returning from the Battle of Gergovie (Clermont Ferrand). The Romans were the first people (apparently) to exploit the natural thermal springs. Vichy developed over the centuries due to these natural resources which gained a reputation for healing properties. Over the ages, many royalty visited Vichy and partook of the waters, claiming miraculous cures, all of which helped promote the towns resources.

It was between 1890 and 1930 that the town was at its most prosperous. In 1900 the Parc des Sources was improved to include a beautiful covered walkway. At this time many hotels were built to accommodate the increasing numbers of tourists. During this period the Spa Hall and the Opera House were also opened. Further development in the 19th century saw the creation of the Parc Omnisports and the Centre for Modern Languages which attracted people from all over the world.

MODERN DAY VICHY

Today, Vichy has little to suggest its involvement in wartime atrocities. Instead it has retained an atmosphere of affluence and charm from the 17th and 18th centuries when the hot and cold spas were at their peak. With some outstanding architecture to complement its natural spaces you will not find a more charming city to visit in this part of France.

You can still visit the original buildings that house the source where you can freely drink the powerfully mineralised water that claims around 50 different cures.

The source is within one of four superb parks, with a wrought-iron covered walk-way, bandstand and original boutiques filled with antique treasures. Just a few streets away is another more naturalised park that lies along the river banks. The river Allier provides an assortment of watersports and a wonderful view. You will find a few restaurants along its shores that provide a superb range of menus, but surprisingly not over-priced. In total, there are 250 acres of parks and gardens within the city.

There is plenty of entertainment including cinema, theatre, opera and ballet. You can take a city tour on the "Town train" or walk the touristic historical city trail, encompassing around 15 ancient buildings and monuments.

In the town centre there are more than enough shops to keep even the most professional shopper happy for a day. There is ample parking which again is not over-priced for a trendy town centre and there are some really good restaurants to choose from. Menus range from 12€ to 38€. The standard Menu de Jour at 12€ should satisfy most hungry tourists and represents exceptional value for money, usually 3 course and sometimes including wine. In never fails to astound me how French city restaurants do not "up their prices" just because they can.

In September 2008 I ate at Le Lutece, Café and Brasserie. 3 RUE PARIS, VICHY. Situated next to the "Quatre Chemins" shopping centre (and covered city centre car park at about 1,20€ per hour).

Menus 16€ to 38€
From the menu de jour (which is always available) I chose the starter of Salad Bourbonnais (a bowl of lettuce, lardons, potato, dressing and topped with a soft fried egg). This I would not have thought of while cooking at home, but was absolutely delicious and have since replicated for a lunchtime treat. The main course was a roasted chicken joint with frites. There was so much meat on this chicken I left chips uneaten - unheard of for me! There was a choice of cheese or pudding. I opted for the tart, apricot, which was out of this world. The menu was16€ with wine at 4€ for 500ml. They offered a children's menu at around 7€. The service was excellent and very friendly. Highly recommended.

VICHY BLACK MADONNAS

There is a beautiful Black Madonna in "l'Eglise St. Blaise" not far from the main park. The church is an amalgamation of an ancient building constructed 1672-1714 on the site of la chapelle Saint-Michel, and another that was built alongside - the Art Deco church with beautiful interior decorations completed in 1933 with the tower completed by 1956.

The walnut Madonna is pride of place behind the altar of the original church. She is highly venerated and paraded through the town on August 15th each year.

A second Black Madonna (Vierge Noir) can be found just 3.5km away in a suberb known as Cusset. This itself is a acharming town with a very pleasant town square next to the church where you will find a few cafés and restaurants.

This Madonna is not an original, but a 19th century copy. The original one was destroyed, except for the hands and head. Nevertheless, the copy is quite beautiful.

WORLD WAR 2 - VICHY REGIME

Vichy was the governmental headquarters during the second world war led by Henri Philippe Benoni Omer Joseph Pétain (1856 - 1951), otherwise known as Philippe Pétain or Marshal Pétain. He was a general who climbed to the position of Chief of State of Vichy France from 1940 to 1944. Pétain was 84 years old when he took this position.

During WWI, Pétain was hailed as a hero of France, particularly due to his efforts during the Battle of Verdun. During the next two decades he held his rank as one of the highest military authorities in France.

After France was defeated by the Germans in 1940, Pétain was voted Head of State. However, he along with his cabinet, illegally transformed the French state into a dictatorship. This government was operated from the town of Vichy, in the department Allier. This Vichy government collaborated more and more with the Germans, who finally took control.

The Vichy Regime governed both occupied (north) and unoccupied (south - Free France) zones of France. Pétain and his government collaborated freely with the Germans. The government, police and state militia helped organise raids, capture and deport 75,721 Jews and other French nationals considered undesirable by the Germans, in both zones of France to Nazi death camps. Less than 2000 survived. (see article "The Vichy Policy on Jewish Deportation" By Paul Webster )

After the Allies invasion of France, Charles de Gaulle proclaimed the Provisional Government of the French Republic in June 1944 which was later recognised as the official government of France in October 1944.

The Vichy officials, in the meantime removed themselves to Germany and continued as an exiled government until 1945.

After the war, Pétain's actions resulted in a conviction and a sentence to death, which was overturned to life imprisonment by Charles de Gaulle. Pétain is considered as a traitor to the modern French citizen.